Chiller sizing
Use your summer high, not winter.
Sum of lights, return pump, powerheads.
~0.5 HP nameplate
Heat load = equipment W × 3.412 BTU/W + 5 BTU/hr per gallon per °F of ambient→target drop, then × 1.25 safety factor. Common sizes round up to JBJ / TECO / Aqua Euro nameplate capacities.
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Inkbird ITC-308 temperature controller
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How this is calculated
Heat load (BTU/hr) = equipment_W × 3.412 + tank_gal × 5 × max(0, ambient_°F − target_°F) Recommended BTU/hr = ceil(heat_load × 1.25 → next size) Common nameplate sizes (BTU/hr): 645 ≈ 1/15 HP JBJ Arctica Mini 950 ≈ 1/10 HP Aqua Euro / JBJ 1500-2200 JBJ Arctica 1/10 HP+ 3000 ≈ 1/4 HP 4000 ≈ 1/3 HP JBJ DBE-200 6000 ≈ 1/2 HP 9000 ≈ 3/4 HP 12000 ≈ 1 HP
The 5 BTU/hr per gallon per °F figure is the conservative end of the TECO/Aqua Euro sizing tables — they actually publish 4–6 BTU depending on cabinet ventilation. Equipment heat is exact: every watt of lighting and pump power eventually becomes heat in the water (the only path out is evaporation, which is why fans help so much).
Before buying a chiller, try fans first. A pair of 120 mm USB fans blowing across the sump surface drops tank temperature 3–4 °F via evaporative cooling — that's enough for most reefs in most climates. Chillers earn their place above 86 °F room highs, basement metal-halide rigs, or 250 W+ LED bars in low-airflow rooms.
FAQ
- Why include equipment wattage — doesn't the chiller only fight the room?
- Lights dump 80–90 % of their input power as heat into the water column. A 200 W reef-bar over 50 gal of water can hold the tank 4 °F above ambient even in a cool room. Always count equipment.
- What's the deal with HP vs BTU/hr?
- BTU/hr is the actual cooling capacity. HP is a marketing legacy from refrigeration (1 HP ≈ 12,000 BTU/hr). Buy by BTU, not HP — different manufacturers' '1/4 HP' chillers vary by 800 BTU.
- Should I oversize?
- Yes — go one notch up. An oversized chiller short-cycles less, holds temp tighter, and lasts longer. Undersized chillers run continuously, overheat, and fail in 12–18 months.
- Inline vs drop-in?
- Inline (plumbed in from sump return) is more efficient and quieter. Drop-in is for emergency use or display-only systems where you can't run plumbing. Inline almost every time for permanent reef installs.
Share / embed this calculator
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<iframe
src="https://reefcalcs.com/embed/chiller-btu/"
width="100%"
height="720"
style="border: 2px solid #111412; max-width: 720px;"
loading="lazy"
title="reefcalcs Aquarium Chiller BTU Calculator"
></iframe>Sources & references
- 1.JBJ Arctica chiller sizing charthttps://www.jbjlighting.com/arctica-chiller/
- 2.Engineering Toolbox — Convert watts to BTU/hr (3.412 conversion factor)https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/electric-power-energy-d_605.html
- 3.Aqua Euro USA — chiller sizing tableshttps://www.aquaeurousa.com/aquarium-chillers
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