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Fighting conch care

Strombus alatus (Florida fighting conch) and S. pugilis · Strombidae (true conchs)

Also called: conch snail, Florida fighting conch, Strombus alatus, Strombus pugilis, West Indian fighting conch

Checked against 3 sources on · reefcalcs editorial

Quick reference

Care level

Beginner

Adult size

About 4 in in the trade (LiveAquaria); up to 11–13 cm (4.5–5 in)[2, 3, 1]

Lifespan

No figure found; Microcosm says it can be kept for many years[1]

Reef safe

Yes; ignores fish and most invertebrates[1, 2]

Diet

Grazer: diatoms, other algae and detritus on the sand[3, 1]

Min tank size

10 US gal

Microcosm gives 38 L (10 gal) with a deep sand bed and open grazing areas; LiveAquaria says one suits any size of reef, while several need larger systems.[1, 2]

Temperature

75–82 °F (Microcosm)[1]

Salinity

35 ppt (SG 1.0264 at 25 °C)

pH

8.0–8.4

What is a fighting conch?

The Florida fighting conch, Strombus alatus, lives in the western Atlantic from North Carolina to Texas, Mexico, Belize and Puerto Rico, on seagrass beds, shallow reefs, sand and rubble, and feeds on diatoms and other algae growing on surfaces.[3] Microcosm notes the similar West Indian fighting conch, S. pugilis, is also sold.[1] It moves with a lurching push of its foot, watches the world through large eyes on stalks, and sometimes gives a startled hop.[1]

Feeding

Microcosm says it grazes algae, diatoms and detritus, and to offer sinking herbivore pellets to be sure it gets enough; cultivated sea lettuce (Ulva) is a good food.[1] LiveAquaria adds dried seaweed and frozen foods as supplements.[2] A hungry conch may climb the glass.[1]

Aggression and spacing

Not aggressive; the name is misleading.[1]

Tankmates

Reef safe, ignoring fish and most invertebrates.[1] It can starve if too many other herbivores compete for food on the sand.[1] Large hermit crabs will attack and kill juveniles under about 1.5 in for their shells.[1] LiveAquaria says it won't tolerate copper.[2]

Disease and quarantine

Avoid copper-based medications.[2] Keep enough sand area and algae growth for it to graze, and supplement if the sand looks bare.[1]

Breeding

SeaLifeBase lists the species as used in commercial fisheries and commercial aquaculture.[3]

Troubleshooting

Conch climbing the glass

Likely cause: Hungry.[1]

Fix: Feed sinking herbivore pellets or seaweed.[1, 2]

Small conch found dead, shell taken

Likely cause: Large hermit crabs.[1]

Fix: Don't keep small conchs with big hermits.[1]

Thin, inactive

Likely cause: Competition from other sand grazers.[1]

Fix: Reduce competing herbivores or feed more.[1]

Common mistakes

  • •Several conchs in a small tank.[2]
  • •No supplemental food.[1]
  • •Keeping small conchs with large hermit crabs.[1]

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Equipment & food for this species

Affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, reefcalcs earns from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.

Inverts need stable salinity — use a refractometer, not a hydrometer.

PE Mysis Shrimp — frozen

Frozen mysis shrimp.

See options on Amazon
Refractometer for saltwater + calibration fluid

Calibrate with 35 ppt fluid monthly. Replaces hydrometers.

See options on Amazon

Fighting conch FAQ

Is a fighting conch reef safe?
Yes: it ignores fish and most invertebrates.[1, 2]
What does a fighting conch eat?
Diatoms, other algae and detritus on the sand, plus sinking herbivore pellets.[3, 1]
How big do fighting conchs get?
About 4 inches in the trade, up to 11–13 cm.[2, 3, 1]
Why is it called a fighting conch?
Not for aggression: it sometimes gives a startled hop, and Microcosm calls the name misleading.[1]
Do fighting conchs need a sand bed?
Yes: Microcosm calls a deep sand bed with open grazing areas essential.[1]

Sources

  1. Microcosm Aquarium Explorer — Fighting conch
  2. LiveAquaria — Fighting conch (retailer care sheet)
  3. SeaLifeBase — Strombus alatus, Florida fighting conch

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