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Anemones

beginner

Rock flower anemone care

Epicystis crucifer (often sold as Phymanthus crucifer) · Phymanthidae (sea anemone)

Also called: rock flower, RFA, flower anemone, beaded anemone, Phymanthus crucifer, Epicystis crucifer, ultra rock flower anemone

Checked against 5 sources on · reefcalcs editorial

Quick reference

Care level

Beginner

Adult size

Usually 3–4 in across; vendors list up to 8 in[2, 1, 3, 4]

Lifespan

No reliable source found

Reef safe

With caution: a weak sting, but it can damage corals it touches[2, 1, 3]

Diet

Photosynthetic, plus small meaty foods[2, 1]

Tank size

Reef Builders' Jeff Kurtz says almost any size works, from nano tanks to larger systems with groups.[1] We found no source giving a minimum.

Light (PAR)

Moderate; CORAL suggests moderate to moderately bright, like soft coral culture[2, 3, 4]

Flow

Moderate

Placement

On the sand at the base of rock, with the foot attached to rock below the sand surface.[1]

Temperature

72–78 °F (LiveAquaria, Quality Marine)[3, 4]

Salinity

35 ppt (SG 1.0264 at 25 °C)

pH

8.0–8.4

What is a rock flower anemone?

Epicystis crucifer is a Caribbean anemone that, in Kurtz's tanks, settled on the sand at the base of rock with its foot anchored below the surface, and could vanish into the substrate quickly when disturbed.[1, 3] It's sold in a range of colours, from tan, green, orange and cream to multicoloured "ultra" and rainbow forms, and CORAL notes red and green are the rarest and most sought after.[1, 2] Its tentacles are smooth or beaded, hence "beaded anemone".[1]

You'll see both names. CORAL Magazine and Quality Marine use Epicystis crucifer; Reef Builders uses Phymanthus crucifer, and Kurtz notes other Phymanthus may be sold under the same common name.[2, 4, 1]

Lighting for a rock flower anemone

Moderate. LiveAquaria and Quality Marine both call for moderate light, LiveAquaria adding that it adapts to a wide range,[3, 4] and CORAL recommends moderate to moderately bright lighting, similar to what soft corals get.[2] Quality Marine suggests a sandy bottom it can retreat into if the light is too strong.[4] We found no published PAR range for the species.

Flow and placement

LiveAquaria lists medium flow, and Kurtz says it tolerates a wide range.[3, 1] It may move to find a spot it likes, so keep it well away from overflows and powerhead intakes.[1]

Feeding

It hosts zooxanthellae that supply much of its food, but both CORAL and Kurtz recommend feeding.[2, 1] Kurtz fed mysis or small pieces of chopped seafood about once a week;[1] CORAL suggests meaty foods two or three times a week, about a quarter-teaspoon per adult, and more often when breeding.[2]

Aggression and spacing

CORAL says it has a weaker sting than almost all other anemones, and that it tends to stay where it's placed.[2] LiveAquaria still rates it semi-aggressive and reef compatible only with caution, and Kurtz notes it can damage sessile invertebrates nearby, though its small size and short reach limit the damage.[3, 1]

Tankmates

Peaceful with fish. None of the sources we checked mention clownfish hosting, so don't buy one expecting a clownfish to move in. Quality Marine warns invertebrates don't tolerate copper.[4]

Splitting and propagation

CORAL's Dick Perrin first suspected it cloned itself, but he concluded it is dioecious, with separate males and females: males release sperm, females brood the young, and Florida collectors report breeding seasons in spring and autumn.[2] Coral Morphologic watched captive adults release over 100 juveniles about 2–3 mm across from their mouths the night before the summer solstice in 2009, which they described as the first documented birth in the species.[5]

Troubleshooting

Anemone wandering

Likely cause: Looking for a better spot, often to get away from light or flow it doesn't like.[1, 4]

Fix: Give it a sand-and-rock base with some shade, and guard pump intakes.[4, 1]

Shrunken, gaping mouth, then tiny anemones on the sand next morning

Likely cause: Brooding adults releasing young.[5]

Fix: Nothing to fix; the parents return to normal.[5]

Coral beside it receding

Likely cause: Stinging contact.[1, 3]

Fix: Give it space from corals.[1]

Shrinking over months

Likely cause: Too little light or food.[2, 1]

Fix: Moderate light and a small meaty feed weekly or more.[2, 1]

Common mistakes

  • •Leaving pump intakes unguarded.[1]
  • •Never feeding it.[2, 1]
  • •Placing it touching corals.[1, 3]
  • •Expecting it to host clownfish.

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Anemones take meaty foods like mysis, and they need stable salinity, so check it with a calibrated refractometer.

Rock flower anemone FAQ

Do rock flower anemones move?
Less than most anemones: CORAL and LiveAquaria say they tend to stay put, though Kurtz says they'll move to find a suitable site.[2, 3, 1]
Will clownfish host a rock flower anemone?
None of the sources we checked mention it; it isn't sold as a clownfish host.
Are rock flower anemones reef safe?
With caution: CORAL says the sting is weaker than almost all other anemones', but it can still damage corals it touches.[2, 1, 3]
How often should I feed a rock flower anemone?
Kurtz fed about once a week; CORAL suggests two or three times a week, more when breeding.[1, 2]
How big do rock flower anemones get?
Usually 3–4 inches across; vendors list up to 8 inches.[2, 1, 3, 4]
Do rock flower anemones reproduce in aquariums?
Yes: Coral Morphologic recorded adults releasing over 100 tiny juveniles in 2009, and CORAL describes males and females with brooding females.[5, 2]

Sources

  1. Jeff Kurtz — The flower anemone: a hardy Caribbean beauty (Reef Builders, 2020)
  2. Dick Perrin — Ugly duckling anemones in a new light (CORAL Magazine, 2012)
  3. LiveAquaria — Rock flower anemone, ultra (retailer care sheet)
  4. Quality Marine — Ultra rock flower anemone (wholesaler care sheet)
  5. Coral Morphologic — Summer solstice birthing (2009)

Spotted something out of date? The corrections log lists every change we make.

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