LPS corals
beginnerFavia coral care
Dipsastraea and related brain corals sold as "Favia" (true Favia: F. fragum, F. gravida) · Scleractinia (large-polyp stony coral)
Also called: moon coral, brain coral, Favites, Dipsastraea
Checked against 3 sources on · reefcalcs editorial
Quick reference
Care level
Beginner
Tank size
We found no source giving a minimum tank size.
Light (PAR)
About 100–150 PAR for Favia, 50–100 for Favites (World Wide Corals)[1]
Flow
Moderate
Placement
Lower two-thirds of the tank, a few inches from other corals.[1]
Temperature
76–81 °F (general reef range)
Salinity
35 ppt (SG 1.0264 at 25 °C)
pH
8.0–8.4
Alkalinity
8–10 dKH (World Wide Corals); keep it steady[1]
What is a Favia coral?
Favia once held close to 100 species. Today only two remain in the genus, both Caribbean (F. fragum and F. gravida); Tidal Gardens says most corals once called Favia are now Dipsastraea, Goniastrea, Coelastrea or Favites, and that "Favia" in the trade is simply a name for closed brain corals, like "chalice".[2, 1] Australia's faunal directory lists Dipsastraea as its own genus.[3] Growth varies by type: some are slow, others double in size quickly.[2]
Favia or Favites? On a Favia (in Veron's sense), each corallite has its own wall and stands slightly proud of the surface; on a Favites, neighbouring corallites mostly share walls. World Wide Corals adds that Favites tend to grow faster with smaller polyps.[1]
Lighting for a Favia coral
World Wide Corals suggests low to medium light, about 100–150 PAR, for Favia and 50–100 PAR for Favites, warning that too much light fades their colour, and to raise light gradually.[1]
Flow and placement
Medium flow, according to World Wide Corals.[1]
Feeding
They're photosynthetic but take food readily. World Wide Corals suggests feeding three or four days a week, in the evening when the feeding tentacles are out, with mysis, brine shrimp, zooplankton, small pellets or prepared coral foods.[1]
Aggression and spacing
Both Favia and Favites put out sweeper tentacles that stretch out and sting nearby corals, and Favites can also use mesenterial filaments for a stronger sting.[1, 2] Keep a few inches between them and their neighbours.[1]
Tankmates
Watch the gap to neighbours as the colony grows, especially at night when the sweepers come out.[2, 1]
Disease and quarantine
Colour fading usually means too much light, raised too fast.[1] Tidal Gardens notes misidentification is common in the trade, so the "Favia" you bought may be another genus with slightly different needs.[2]
Fragging and propagation
We found no reliable source on fragging favias; growth is slow in some types and fast in others.[2]
Troubleshooting
Colours fading after a light change
Neighbour damaged on the side facing it
Common mistakes
Equipment & food for this species
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Most LPS benefit from occasional target-feeding, and a dip on new frags catches hitchhiking pests before they reach the display.
Dip for pests such as flatworms and red bugs on new corals. BRS says it contains no iodine or oxidizers.
Powder coral food. LPS / chalice / Goniopora staple.
The hobbyist standard for alkalinity testing.
Target feeder for spot-feeding corals.
Favia coral FAQ
- What's the difference between Favia and Favites?
- Favia corallites each have their own wall; Favites corallites share walls. Favites also tend to grow faster with smaller polyps.[1]
- How much light does a Favia need?
- World Wide Corals suggests about 100–150 PAR for Favia and 50–100 for Favites.[1]
- Is Favia still a real genus?
- Only for two Caribbean species; most corals sold as Favia are now Dipsastraea and other genera.[2, 1]
- How often should I feed a Favia?
- World Wide Corals suggests three or four evenings a week.[1]
Sources
- World Wide Corals — Favia vs Favites: understanding the difference (coral farm blog)
- Tidal Gardens — Moon and brain corals, Favia and Favites (coral farm)
- Australian Faunal Directory — Genus Dipsastraea de Blainville, 1830
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