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Mandarin dragonet care

Synchiropus splendidus · Callionymidae (dragonet)

Also called: mandarin goby, mandarinfish, green mandarin, psychedelic mandarin, spotted mandarin

Checked against 11 sources on · reefcalcs editorial

Quick reference

Care level

Advanced

Adult size

Up to 7 cm (about 2.75 in) total length[6]

Lifespan

No reliable source found

Reef safe

Yes; no threat to corals or invertebrates[4, 1]

Diet

Carnivore: copepods, amphipods and other tiny invertebrates[5, 4]

Min tank size

75 US gal

LiveAquaria and Bulk Reef Supply give 30 gallons and Microcosm 20, all assuming a well-established tank; Meerwasser-Lexikon recommends 240 L (about 63 US gal) and says food supply and bottom area matter more than volume.[2, 1, 4, 5] We use 75 gallons, as the stocking calculator does: what limits a mandarin is how much live food the tank grows, not swimming room.

Temperature

72–80 °F (LiveAquaria 72–78, Bulk Reef Supply 75–80)[2, 1]

Salinity

35 ppt (SG 1.0264 at 25 °C)

pH

8.0–8.4

What is a mandarin dragonet?

The mandarin dragonet is a small fish of the western Pacific, from the Ryukyu Islands to Australia, living in shallow lagoons and inshore reefs over silty rubble at 1–18 m.[6] It isn't a goby, despite the trade name: it belongs to the dragonet family, Callionymidae.[6] In the wild, and in an aquarium, it spends the day hopping over rock and sand picking off copepods, amphipods and worms, and Meerwasser-Lexikon says it has to eat almost constantly.[5] At dusk a pair rises toward the surface together to release eggs and sperm.[6]

Green, psychedelic and "blue" mandarins are all Synchiropus splendidus; the spotted or target mandarin is S. picturatus, a separate species.[3] Males have a longer first dorsal spine.[2]

Feeding

This is the whole game. Bulk Reef Supply calls feeding the most important part of mandarin care: wild-caught fish often refuse anything other than live copepods, so the tank needs a thriving copepod population, a refugium, or regular additions of live pods, and a mandarin can starve in a tank that looks healthy.[1] Microcosm warns that one that has grown thin is hard to bring back.[4]

Captive-bred fish are different. Commercial breeding of the green mandarin became possible through better larval feeds,[3] and properly weaned captive-bred fish eat inanimate foods: Bulk Reef Supply lists frozen baby brine shrimp, frozen mysis, micro pellets and fish roe,[1] and Reef Builders filmed Biota's captive-bred pair eating flake.[7] They still hunt pods between meals.[1] Mandarins are slow, timid eaters, so target-feed them where faster fish can't steal the food.[1, 4]

We found no reliable figure for how many copepods a mandarin eats a day, or how big a tank must be to grow them, so treat any number you see online as a guess.

Aggression and spacing

Peaceful toward other fish, but males fight: Microcosm says males attack and bite each other, and Meerwasser-Lexikon says two males fight to the death.[4, 5] A male and a female get along, and pairs may spawn in the tank.[4, 5] Bulk Reef Supply advises keeping one, or a mated pair.[1]

Tankmates

Good with corals and invertebrates.[4, 1] Bulk Reef Supply lists clownfish, gobies, cardinalfish, most wrasses, firefish and tangs as suitable tankmates, but mandarins are timid and easily bullied at feeding time.[1] The bigger problem is competition for food: in fish-only tanks it often loses out to faster feeders,[4] and Meerwasser-Lexikon advises against keeping other pod-eaters such as pipefish or small wrasses with it.[5]

Disease and quarantine

Microcosm calls it highly disease-resistant, and Meerwasser-Lexikon says the mucus covering its scaleless skin may protect it from disease and predators.[4, 5] That isn't immunity, and the commonest cause of death is starvation rather than disease.[1] We found no disease information specific to the mandarin dragonet. General marine fish guidance applies: CORAL Magazine recommends quarantining every incoming fish, captive-bred included, for at least 2–4 weeks, and UF/IFAS advises 3–6 weeks at 24–27 °C, longer when ich is suspected.[10, 11] A quarantine tank has no pods, so a wild-caught mandarin needs live food there; a captive-bred one already eating frozen food is far easier.[1]

Breeding

Wild fish spawn as pairs at dusk; females in one study released 12 to 205 eggs, and larvae settled within 14 days at 24–26 °C.[8] Larval rearing works far better with live copepods: in feeding trials, survival to day 12 rose from about 5.6 % on rotifers alone to about 50 % when copepod nauplii were added.[9] Captive-bred green mandarins are now produced commercially and reach the trade.[3, 7]

Troubleshooting

Getting thinner, belly pinched

Likely cause: Not enough live food; the tank's pods can't keep up.[1]

Fix: Add live copepods, set up a refugium, target-feed frozen foods if it takes them, or rehome it to a bigger, older reef.[1, 4]

Ignores frozen food entirely

Likely cause: Likely wild-caught; many accept only live copepods.[1]

Fix: Keep the pod supply up; next time buy captive-bred fish already eating frozen.[1, 3]

Two mandarins chasing and biting

Likely cause: Two males.[4, 5]

Fix: Separate them: keep one, or one male with a female (males have the longer first dorsal spine).[2, 1]

Never gets food at feeding time

Likely cause: Faster tankmates take it first.[4, 1]

Fix: Target-feed with a pipette or feeding station.[1]

Rising to the surface with another mandarin at dusk

Likely cause: Normal pair spawning.[6]

Fix: Nothing to fix.[6]

Common mistakes

  • •Adding it to a new tank with no established pod population.[2, 1]
  • •Buying wild-caught fish without a live-food plan.[1]
  • •Keeping two males.[4, 5]
  • •Housing it with fast, greedy feeders or other pod-eaters.[4, 5]
  • •Waiting until it looks thin to act.[4]

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Equipment & food for this species

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Frozen mysis is a good staple and quality pellets cover daily feeding. Many keepers soak food in a vitamin supplement such as Selcon.

TDO Chroma Boost pellets

Sinking fish pellets in several sizes.

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Selcon (American Marine)

Fatty-acid and vitamin supplement for soaking frozen food.

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Mandarin dragonet FAQ

Are mandarin dragonets hard to keep?
Wild-caught ones are: LiveAquaria rates the fish difficult, and Bulk Reef Supply says wild fish often refuse anything but live copepods.[2, 1] Captive-bred mandarins weaned onto frozen and pellet foods are much easier.[1, 3]
What do mandarin dragonets eat?
Copepods, amphipods and other tiny invertebrates they pick off rock and sand.[5, 4] Captive-bred fish also eat frozen baby brine shrimp, mysis, micro pellets and fish roe.[1]
Is a mandarin goby a goby?
No. It's a dragonet, family Callionymidae; "mandarin goby" is a trade name.[6]
Can you keep two mandarins together?
Only a male and a female. Males fight, sometimes to the death.[4, 5] Males have the longer first dorsal spine.[2]
What size tank does a mandarin need?
Vendors say 30 gallons and Microcosm 20, for a well-established tank; Meerwasser-Lexikon recommends 240 L (about 63 US gal).[2, 1, 4, 5] We use 75 gallons, because the limit is the tank's live food supply.
Are mandarin dragonets reef safe?
Yes. They don't bother corals or invertebrates.[4, 1]

Sources

  1. Bulk Reef Supply — How to care for mandarin dragonets
  2. LiveAquaria — Green mandarin dragonet (retailer care sheet)
  3. Matt Pedersen — Mandarin dragonet breeding in Monaco (CORAL Magazine, 2019)
  4. Microcosm Aquarium Explorer — Green mandarin
  5. Meerwasser-Lexikon — Synchiropus splendidus
  6. FishBase — Synchiropus splendidus, mandarinfish
  7. Jake Adams — Biota's captive-bred mandarins caught eating flake food (Reef Builders, 2017)
  8. Sadovy, Mitcheson & Rasotto (2001), Early development of the mandarinfish, Synchiropus splendidus, Aquarium Sciences and Conservation 3:253–263
  9. Zeng, Shao, Ricketts & Moorhead (2018), The importance of copepods as live feed for larval rearing of the green mandarin fish, Aquaculture 491:65–71
  10. CORAL Magazine — Bucket transfer quarantine method, Joseph Szczebak (2017)
  11. UF/IFAS EDIS FA164 — Cryptocaryon irritans infections (marine white spot disease) in fish, Roy P. E. Yanong

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